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 Post subject: Ian's New one
PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 12:23 am 
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For those of you that asked which one id bought i guess you can tell.
I've only really took 1 pic before putting it away to sort its few problems.

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:smt012

Plans are for a set of German plates, maybe the air ducts instead of front fogs, little bit of restro, and then enjoy :smt041

Changes carried out so far by me:
Carbon Porsche sill plates
German dealer plate bottom
Heater control moved to stereo space with carbon front
Weather seal added to under bonnet

Mods in progress:
German plates
Porsche style door handles

Mods comming:
Porsche style VIN plate
Remote central locking
Fit Bailey oil seperator
Mod rocker cover to move oil cap

Bits to fix:
Passanger locking
Drivers door shutting
Gear linkage
Fix radiator mount
Fit fans

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Last edited by Ians on Sat Jan 26, 2008 8:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 7:08 am 
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Good to see it returned. Welcome mate. :smt006 :smt012

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 10:02 am 
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Welcome aboard :smt012
Firt job on your list it to get the temperature gauge working before you cook the engine because it will probably overheat if driven very long with it's current setup :smt018 Trust me

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 10:25 am 
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Yeh, its on my to do list with the rest of the gauges, im not sure if theyve ever been wired up :smt017 - i havent checked yet, be eaiser if they havent tbh, bit easier starting fresh.

I am a Ford man, so this is the first time i've ventured to VW, apart from our old Passat, but thought it best to keep it part Ford (with the engine :lmao )

I have looked at the fitting the rad in the rear like youve done, which is something i bvery well may do to help with the cooling. Today i want to get the bloody gear selector looked at- though ill propberbly get sidetracked with someting else :lmao

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:15 am 
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The gear selector problem will probably be the grub screw has come loose where the selector rod joins the gearbox selector shaft. There should an access panel/plate just in front of rear seats on top of the wide section of tunnel which will allow you to get at the grub screw. This grub screw locates into a locating hole on the main gearbox selector rod and should be locktighted in place when refitting :smt012
Either that or the gear selector joint just before the grub screw has broken or the bolt has come undone. Either way both are accessed from the top of rear centre tunnel :smt003
Be warned, if you remove your gearstick, the gearstick mounting plate must be re-fitted in the exact position otherwise you will only end up with 2 gears. Very fiddly job to set back up and get all the gears smoothly and best done with second gear sellected first :smt012

If you find all of the above to be ok then it could be the worse case. Gearbox selector fork snapped inside the gearbox, which will mean an engine & gearbox out job :smt009 I don't think this will be the case though.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:27 am 
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welcome to our 'little club' :smt006
good advice Darren. the easiest thing to try 1st is the gear stick end and the mounting plate, its only 2 bolts. i think i once read a good method was to slacken the 2 bolts, select reverse gear then tighten the bolts. 5 minute job :smt012 if your lucky ! :smt003

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:41 pm 
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Thanks Andy :D

Darren, ive pulled my carpet up, but nothing seems to be there :smt017
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From the shifter theres also a rod that goes forward, is that normal?
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This is the view from the underside, looks a bit comlpicated under there :smt100
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:59 pm 
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Ians wrote

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Today i want to get the bloody gear selector looked at


Just a couple of suggestions for the shifting issue you’re having.
None of this stuff is really expensive, just fiddly & time consuming, you’re call

- Replace the shift coupling with a quality Urethane one & loose the sloppiness, Berg? EMPI? Just check you’re local HOT VW sources. Coupling as Darren stated can be accessed via the panel at the rear of the trans tunnel.
- While you’re there grab a ‘Short Shift Kit’ which for under £10- guessing here – will reduce the shifter throw around 20-30%. Just make sure you get the alloy (NOT Plastic) one. Its fits in under your shift lever and is a 2 bolt (then adjust) retrofit, dead easy and cheap. Just heed Darren's advice, IF you touch the 2 bolts holding the Shifter, you'll have to go through the adjustment proceedure......
- Replace the shift rod bush, cheap, but fiddly, messy & painful, but worth it in the end.

All 3 of these mods completed and you will enjoy precise (quiet, no rattles) shifting. If there are further issues, well ‘Out With the TRANs’.

Below are some procedures stolen from the WWW.

Shifter Bushing Replacement
http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/shifter.html
NOTE: This procedure was developed from experience with a 1973 Super Beetle, but the techniques are generally applicable.
Parts Needed -
- Bushing and clip
- Coupler and associated hardware
- Shift rod hanger (if bracket is excessively worn).
1. The night before starting this job, crawl under the front of the car and apply Kroil penetrating oil to the eight bolts that hold the "crash plate" to the frame head.
NOTE: If you will not be removing the shift rod you will not need to remove the "crash plate." There is sufficient room in the Super Beetle "nose" to slide the shift rod out of the bushing without extending it out of the front of the frame head.
2. Remove both of the front seats to provide more convenient access.
3. Move the floor mat around the gearshift lever out of the way.
4. Remove the rear seat. Underneath it in the center you will see an inspection cover that is held in place with a single screw. Remove this inspection cover; there you will find the back end of the shift rod and the coupling that connects it to the transmission shaft.
5. Run the shift lever through the gears (including reverse) and note the position of the coupling in each gear for future reference.
6. Put the shift lever in neutral. Mark the position of the stop plate in relation to the ball housing flange to ensure proper alignment during installation. Incorrect alignment of the stop plate in the shift lever assembly can cause shifting problems.
7. Using a 13mm wrench, remove the two M8 x 20 bolts that hold the gearshift assembly to the tunnel.
8. Remove the shift lever, ball housing, rubber boot and spring as a single unit.
9. Before removing the stop plate, note the orientation of the raised tabs on the stop plate.
NOTE: Regardless of the design of the stop plate, the important thing to remember is that the stop plate must be reinstalled with the tab(s) oriented exactly the same way they were before removal. If the stop plate is put on backwards when you reassemble things, you will not be able to get the car into reverse.
10. Inspect the rubber boot, the shift lever collar, stop plate and shift lever ball socket in the shift rod for wear. Replace any worn parts.
11. Disassemble the shift lever assembly. Sand and paint the shift lever if it needs it.
NOTE: While you're there, this is a good opportunity to spruce up the handbrake lever and heater control levers if they need it.
12. Look down into the hole where the shift lever was; you will see a cup. Stick your finger in the cup and rotate it side to side. If it has any play up and down or side to side, the shift rod bushing (sleeve guide, per Bentley) is worn and should be replaced. Rotating the shaft should be easy, with no play.
13. Move to the rear end of the shift rod. Move the rod back and forth and side to side, just as you did in the front. If there is any play in the coupling, you will need to replace it.
14. Remove the little square-headed bolt from the back part of the coupling.
15. While holding the tube that runs through the coupling with pliers on the other side, remove the self-tapping screw that goes through the coupling and the shifter rod. Turn the coupler as necessary to gain access.
16. Crawl under the front of the car and remove the deformation element ("crash plate") that is bolted on the front of the frame head with eight bolts. This will provide access to rectangular hole in the frame head through which the shift rod must pass if you plan to remove it.
17. Working from the shift lever hole in the frame tunnel between the front seats, grab the shift rod with a regular pair of pliers (opened to the wider opening) to pry the shift rod forward and separate it from the coupling in the rear.
18. Apply grease liberally to the rod right in front of the bushing and pry it back and forth to lubricate the bushing--this will make it easier to slide the rod through the bushing.
19. Continue to pry the shift rod through the guide bushing toward the front of the car. This will be slow going, as you will only be able to pry it forward an inch or so at a time, but persevere.
NOTE: Rotate the shift rod so that the cup is pointing downward before prying it forward, otherwise it will run into the forward captive nut on the hanger bracket and other internals in the tunnel.
20. Once the rear end of the shift rod is clear of the guide bushing, move to the front of the car and reach in to the hole in the frame head to find the front end of the rod (it won't be sticking out of the hole).
21. Pull the shift rod forward through the tunnel and out the hole. Remove the cover plate in the nose apron under the front bumper and pull the shift rod out.
22. If you take the shift rod completely out, inspect it for distortion. Replace it if it's warped or damaged (a bent shift rod can cause hard shifting and/or loss of first and third gear).
23. Clean the shift rod up as best you can (most easily done by removing it completely from the car). If the shift rod has a lot of surface rust on it, it may be difficult to slide it back into the new bushings; you may want to wire brush it a bit. You especially want the rod to be very smooth in the area where it rests in the bushing. Use a wire brush and fine emory cloth if necessary.
24. Remove the old worn bushing from the bracket by pulling it--and the "clip" (actually a rubber O-ring on the replacement bushing) out the shift rod hanger bracket with a pair of pliers (fingers work well also).
25. Inspect the bracket that held the bushing in the shift rod hanger. If it has become egg-shaped it will have to be replaced. This will involve drilling out the six spot welds (three on either side of the shift hole) and then rewelding the new hanger in place.
NOTE: The hanger has captive bolts on the bottom side, front and back, that hold the whole shift lever assembly in place. However, the hanger must be spot welded in place before the shifter assembly is installed so that the shift rod can be pushed through the bushing.
26. Install the bushing, smaller end first, into the shift rod hanger with the slot pointing to the left of the car. The flange on the bushing should be on the FRONT side of the bracket, with the clip immediately behind the flange (in front of the bracket).
27. Apply a good lithium (white) grease liberally to the end of the shift rod and the interior of the bushing, and start the rear end of the shift rod through the bushing. Repeat the prying potion with the pliers, only in the opposite direction. Smear grease onto the rod as it is pushed back through the bushing. The fit will be snug difficult with all the grease, but hang in there.
28. Work the rod almost all the way back to the rear, raising the rear end of the rod as you go to clear the rear footwell cable tubes in the tunnel.
29. Install the coupling onto the rear of the rod by inserting the tube through the coupling and the hole in the rod from one side and screwing in the self-tapping screw from the other. You must hold the rod with pliers on one side and push/turn the screw on the other--a bit tricky.
30. Just before pushing the rod back the last inch or so, smear a lot more grease around the rod where it will be in the bushing.
31. Clean all shift lever parts thoroughly and re-assemble the shift lever assembly. Lubricate all moving parts with multi-purpose grease. Pack the shifter cup and the bottom of the shift rod assembly (where the spring is) with grease.
32. Install the shift lever assembly. Make sure the shift lever locating pin (if there is one) engages the slot in the ball socket and the stop plate seats in the hollow central part of the ball housing. If the shift lever is installed and seated properly, it will be vertical when it is in neutral.
33. Install the ball housing flange bolts loosely. Match up the alignment marks of the flange, stop plate and tunnel.
34. Before tightening the shifter bolts, confirm that the assembly is positioned so that the shift lever is vertical in neutral. Then tighten the shifter bolts. Recheck the position of the shift lever and readjust as necessary.
35. Go to the rear seat area, and while guiding the new coupler onto the transmission shaft, push the shift lever forward into either first or third gear and push the coupler onto the transmission shaft.
36. Replace the square-headed bolt (a 10mm hex head bolt in the new design) on the top rear of the coupler, making sure that it screws into the indented hole in the transmission shaft.. Make sure all fasteners are tightened securely.
37. Replace the access panel under the rear seat and put the seat back in.
38. Replace the "crash plate" on the front of the frame head if it was removed to allow removal of the shift rod.
39. Replace the tunnel mat, carpeting, and the front seats.

Stop Plate Adjustment

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Lane ... teadj.html

If you remove the shifter lever for any reason (e.g., to replace the shift rod bushing), you will need to readjust the stop plate. This adjustment is quite sensitive -- the slightest amount of maladjustment can throw things out of whack and cause difficulty when shifting gears.

NOTE: There are two styles of stop plate -- the older style has square turned-up ends which cup the base plate; the later style has round ends which are flat. With the later type, the stop place can move under the baseplate more than the earlier type. Regardless of the design of the stop plate, the important thing to remember is that the stop plate must be reinstalled with the tabs oriented exactly the same way they were before removal. If the stop plate is put on backwards when you reassemble things, you will not be able to get the car into reverse.

1- Before removing the shift lever, put the transmission in neutral and mark the position of the stop plate in relation to the shifter flange to ensure proper alignment during reinstallation.
2- When removing the gearshift assembly, note how the shift stop plate underneath the main cover is oriented – the tabs are pointing upwards and the ramped section is positioned forward and to the right. It is important that it not be put in backwards when you reassemble things or you will not be able to get the car into reverse.
3- During reassembly, position the stop plate just as it was before you took it out. Before tightening the shifter bolts, make sure the assembly is positioned so that the shift lever is vertical in neutral. Tap the stop plate to align with the marks you made before you removed the stop plate. Then tighten the shifter bolts.
4- If you failed to mark the position of the stop plate before you took it out, or if you have shifting problems after it's reassembled, then you will need to adjust the stop plate. Do this as follows:
a. Partially unbolt the shifter flange. Just get the bolts loose enough that the stop plate will move if you tap it at the base.
b. Put the shifter in reverse.
c. Tap the stop plate to the right and forward as far as it will go while maintaining reverse.
d. Tighten bolts such that it is now difficult, but not impossible, to move the stop plate by tapping it.
e. Try all 5 gears. You will probably be well adjusted now. If not, tap the stop plate to the rear and left slightly until all five gears shift smoothly. Be patient – it's well worth the effort.
f. Once you are satisfied with the shift pattern, tighten down the shifter bolts as per the torque specs in the manual.

Another method: With the later type of stop plate (flat rounded ends) you may be able to simply position the gearshift in neutral and vertical, then use a screwdriver blade (or similar) on the edge of the stop plate to push it to the left and forward while the base plate stays stationary. Tighten the bolts and check all gears. If you can't get reverse, tap the stop plate a little to the rear and try again.

Sorry for the Looooooong post, just NO easy way to explain this if you haven't done it before.........

:smt039 SeeYA :smt039
Rainer

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:30 pm 
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Cheers Rainer, that's saved my some typing :lmao :smt012

Ian. First of all, great stuff posting some pictures as this is the fastest way to solve problems :smt012
There should be an access point in the tunnel :smt017

You can clearly see the Gear Coupling has snapped in this picture below and as rainer said, best to order a good quallity one from Berg, Empi, SSP, Coolair or Heritage :smt012
Fiddly job to replace and a bit messy but a very cheap fix so not to bad :smt003

NOTE: There's no need to remove your gearstick just yet. Best to replace the coupling first and see how the gears feel before adding to the problem :smt018

Image

This is what your coupling should look like m8 :smt003

Image

This one below is available from SSP (VW Heritage) £11.50 Best to give them a call first and tell them it's for a VW Type 3 Fastback 1972 just to be on the safe side but I'm 99.9% sure the Beetle one will also fit :smt012
Website here SSP HERITAGE
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 4:08 pm 
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Great post Reiner :)

Darren, any chance you could circle the part in the picture which you say is broke? never having worked on anything VW before, and from lying under it about an unch from my face im trying to work it out :smt007

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:37 pm 
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Ians wrote:
Great post Reiner :)

Darren, any chance you could circle the part in the picture which you say is broke? never having worked on anything VW before, and from lying under it about an unch from my face im trying to work it out :smt007

Hang on a min :smt017 Something a bit odd here. Looking at the picture again I'm not so sure because it looks like you've got a different gearbox fitted :smt017 I could be wrong but it looks like it might be a side shift gearbox like they used on T25 Bus :smt017
Can you confirm the gear selector is on the side of the gearbox and not at the REAR ?
Any chance of a few more pictures including one a little bit further back so I can see more of the gearbox driveshaft and chassis layout ?
This could get interesting :smt003

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 7:10 pm 
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Does this look like your gearbox by any chance ? Count the ribs on side and top

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